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There are four basic types

of vivaria. Although this sections intent is to provide basic information on these types. These are only guidelines, not rules on how to set up an environment. You may find more specific and detailed information by clicking on "enclosures" on the menu bar above, and selecting"Enclosures Homepage". Trying to simulate a herps' natural home is what I find to be one of the most enjoyable parts about keeping herps.

Forest Floor.

This type of enclosure should have a slightly moist substrate, usually a flaky and airy potting soil mix or mulch. You may also try seedling orchid bark. The substrate should be deep enough for the upper surface to be dry. Depending on the species kept, attention must be given to the type of substrate used; some species will need a sandier substrate, for others sand may be abrasive. A few rocks or a dried tree stump can be used for landscaping, as can several species of live plants. Several shelters should be included. Relative humidity builds up within the shelters as a result of trapping water evaporation from the substrate. For tropical species a subtank heater is used to maintain an even ground temperature. For montane or temperate species, no subtank heat is required. A spotlight is placed over a basking area so that temperatures are in the mid 80's F.

Tropical Forest

This type of enclosure should have a dry substrate surface, typically orchid bark or a moist soil mix. A basking light is placed over a basking area, in most cases over a diagonally placed branch, because many tropical forest lizards are arboreal or semi-arboreal. A subtank heater, such as FlexWatt® , should be used to help maintain the enclosure at an evenly warm temperature around the mid 80's F during the day with a 5-10 F drop at night. The temperature of the basking area should be 90-95 F. Dried woods and live plants can be used for landscaping. Good plants are pothos, Chinese evergreen, dracaenas, Sanservieria trifasciata and hybrids, bromeliads such as nerogelias and earth stars (Cryptanthus), and many others. Relative humidity should be moderate to high, depending on substrate moisture, plants and misting regimens. Watering for arboreal species is provided primarily by misting but it is also a good idea to keep a small water dish in the enclosure.

Shoreline

This is an enclosure that combines land and water. The basic design is simple. In an enclosure at least 24 inches long, aquarium gravel is placed in such a manner to create a ground level sloping into a water section. Rocks are placed at the edge of the water. Freshwater driftwood can also be added to the enclosure. Plants such as pothos, arrowheads and Chinese evergreen, are grown hydroponically. A subtank heater on a thermostat can be used to maintain the overall tank temperature in the high 70's F. A basking light is placed over a basking area so that the temperature is around the mid 80's F. The enclosure can be flushed by pouring water through the gravel and siphoning out through the water section.

Desert

This type of enclosure will need a dry substrate, either sand or fine gravel. It will have one or more hot basking areas created by spotlights, plus one or more shelters. A hot-rock type heater can be used as a secondary heating source. Rocks and dry woods are used to landscape. Some live plants can also be incorporated, such as sansevierias, ponytail palms, haworhais and others. Daytime temperatures should be in the low to mid 80's F, with basking areas from 87-100 F. This type of enclosure also includes a marked drop in nighttime temperatures, usually down to room temperature during the warm months. Lizards from dry montane areas typically require a greater drop in night time temperatures. Relative humidity is typically low to moderate because of the low moisture content of the substrate and high evaporative rate generated by spotlights in the enclosure. Winter temperatures should be determined by the requirements of the particular species. Water is provided only in a shallow dish. Plants are watered individually at the base.

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