Criptic's Page On Herps - Reptiles - General Care

Most herps require heating of some sort to thrive in captivity. There are several methods in which you can provide heat. In this section I will cover a few of the different ways of providing heat.

Incandescent lighting

The most common method of providing a heat source for herps is to use incandescent bulbs. You may use either a regular bulb or a spotlight. In a proper fixture, usually an aluminum reflector, this can be a very efficient method. These are typically placed above a screen cover. Basking lights are generally suitable for a large number of terrestrial, arboreal and some fossorial lizards that bask. For some nocturnal lizards, low wattage red incandescent bulbs can be a good heat source.

Be sure the fixture you choose can handle the wattage and type of bulb you are using, or you may have a fire risk. You should calibrate the daytime temperature with the aid of a thermometer. By varying the wattage and type of incandescent bulb used, you can achieve suitable temperature gradients within an enclosure. There is a risk of overheating if a wrong wattage bulb is used. These bulbs are unsuitable for heating very small enclosures, because all areas are exposed to the light, resulting in a lack of thermal gradient. There is a risk of overheating in small or partially covered enclosure.

Ceramic infrared bulbs

These bulbs generate a nice even heat without generating light, making them practical for use during both day and night. They are expensive yet long-lived, and may prove particularly useful for heating enclosures at night. Be careful when selecting a wattage, or you could risk cooking your animal. During the day, use this bulb in conjunction with fluorescent light. Make sure your animals can't get in direct contact with it. Place the bulb over basking areas so that plants and landscape structures do not get baked. Rheostats and pulse-proportional thermostats can be used in conjunction with these bulbs to adjust temperatures.

There is a risk of overheating if the proper wattage bulb is not selected and if a thermometer or thermostat is not used. Caution: the fact that these bulbs do not generate light when they are on can lead to accidental burns.

Hot-rocks

Hot rocks provide localized heat which does not heat the air. These are best considered as secondary heat source for terrestrial reptiles, in conjunction with a primary heat source such as incandescent bulbs. They are also a good source of heat for terrestrial lizards at night. Units with thermostats are preferable to those without. You may adjust the temperature by burying the device under the substrate as well.

If used in a enclosure which is otherwise inadequately heated, hot rocks reinforce behaviors such as lizards frequently basking on the hot rock because the rest of the enclosure is too cool. If a lizard lies on their belly against hot rocks for too long, they may get subtle thermal burns.

Heating strips

Heat strips are now very low cost and a great source for heating an enclosure. They are normally used for heating seed trays in nurseries. When linked to a rheostat, such as a light dimmer, they have proven to be an excellent heat source for reptiles. The strips should be placed in a space underneath the enclosure. Make sure that the strip is not crushed by the edge of the enclosure.

This is an excellent and inexpensive source of bottom heat for all glass enclosures. It creates an even low heat throughout most of the under surface For most species these should be used in conjunction with a spotlight over a basking area. Heat strips are most useful with recessed glass-bottom or custom made enclosures. They should be placed in an airspace. Heat tape should never be used on or applied to a vertical surface. The heat builds to potentially dangerous levels along the upper portion of the strip.

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